談山神社

談山神社

12.18.2010

Hallowed ground-- Koyasan

Koyasan in December was very calm. There were few visitors and I could hardly believe the crowd  in Summer.
Thousand of gravestones were filled with moss and a lot of  big cedars have been making a tranquil, still space for a long time.I wonder how many years these cedars are living. Their diameter were pretty large. There were a lot of warrior's tombstones we know. While some of them were alive, they might have fought each. Now they are resting in the same site.

Near Okunoin
 Matuo Basho came here and sang a haiku that "父母の しきりにこいし 雉子の声” (my translation: When I listen to a pheasant crying, I miss my parent. If this translation is error, please correct this.) This is included in 笈の小文. This is based on "山鳥の ほろほろと鳴く 声聞けば 父かとぞ思ふ 母かとぞ思ふ”(my translation: When I listen to a copper pheasant crying , I take it for my parent voice. I miss my parent.) This  tanka was made by Gyoki at Mt.Yoshino. Basho might have miss his parent ,seeing gravestones,I wonder?

protecter  there
 When we go though here, we come to a place that we purify our hands and mouth. And beyond a river is holy place. There is Okunoin of Kobo-daisi's mausoleum in that holy place. People comes Okunoin to place the ashes of the dead.  It's dark inside the house and I could only see  orange lights of countless  lanterns hanging from  the celling. Those silent , warm lights make atmosphere of esoteric Buddhism. While a priest recites a sutra for an hour, my eyes were used to that darkness then suddenly I became to be able to see a picture of Kobo-daishi on the wall in front of us. I was a little bit surprised and I prayed its picture irresistibly. It seems  like a magic. I wonder how people  think of it in the old days.


Kobo-daisi
A priest in Yakusiji explained one day that they say about wabi-sabi when they say about  temples in Kyoto ,on one hand ,temples in Nara are standing heavily, peacefully at big site and they don't say about wabi-sabi. That reminded me that number of suicide in Nara prefecture is the lowest in Japan.(by a magazine "President") Things in Nara are not so nervous, I wonder? If so, it's good for me to live in Nara.
By the way,how about temples in Koyasan? Koyasan was founded by Kobo-daisi  and it has accepted  people in all sects or all classes and has developed as people's spiritual home or rest and now became a Buddhism capital of Singonsyu, according to a guide. Surely I felt somehow elusive tense because thousands of spirits are resting in the grave and a repository. May their soul rest in Heaven.
three cedars connect each other